“Apud me in eis, quae dulcia sunt, non est malum” (It seems to me that when it comes to sweets, none is bad” Avicenna
The use of sugar as medicine was first recognized by Persian scholars in 600AD. It remained a medicine throughout our period. According to humoral theory, the nature of sugar is both “hot” and “moist”, not overly so, and was ideal then, to keep the body in balance because it neutralized those substances that were “cold” and “dry”. There was also an argument that the properties of sugar most closely mimicked the body’s own natural state.
The usefulness of sugar for the apothecary cannot be overstated. Not only did sugar improve digestion, first by opening the stomach, to prepare the body for the process of digesting food and heating the stomach so that the stomach could continue the process of “cooking” any food eaten, but it also allowed for the removal of phlegm (cold and wet), which would cause the blood to become impure. It was critical to maintaining health.
Among the medical effects listed was its ability to act as a preservative by absorbing moisture and protecting preparations from the air. It could be used as a coating or a binder to bind drugs together, made into syrups, pastes, jelly, cordials, and elixirs. When mixed with gum Arabic, it could be turned into pastilles or pills. All the while enhancing the medicinal properties of the spices, flowers, roots, or fruits that it was mixed with.
Only the very rich could afford sugar and use it as a seasoning. Early household account books record the various names of sugar that were used; Alexandrian sugar, Zuker Marrokes, Sugre of Sicilis, Barbarye sugar, Zucre de Roche, Ordinary Sugar, Violet Sugar, Rose Sugar, etc. As sugar cane plantations expanded, and the import of sugar increased, so to did the consumption of sugar among the wealthy and privileged.
According to Mimi Goodall,” Sugar first came to England in the 11th century, brought back by soldiers returning from the Crusades in what is now the Middle East. Over the next 500 years, it remained a rarefied luxury until Portuguese colonists began producing it at a more industrial level in Brazil during the 1500s.
One of the earliest references I have been able to find in reference to Manus Christi can be attributed to Giovanni da Vigo.
The confection called manus chri∣sti, is made after this sorte. ℞. of whit sugger one pounde, of rose water as muche as shall suffyce, make a confec∣tion at the fyer in morselles. But yf ye put thervnto of margarites .ʒ. ss. it shal be very cordiall. (The Most Excellent Workes Of Chirurgerye, 1543)
Notice the use of the symbol ℞.? In the 1580’s, this shortened form of the Latin word for a recipe (French from the Latin recipere, meaning “take thou”) was meant as a notation from a physician to an apothecary instructing the apothecary on the listing of materials that would be needed to formulate a remedy, or a treatment to address a health issue. It is still used today.
Today’s manus Christi has been made with the very virtuous oil of cinnamon, which is hot and dry, and good against any cold and moist disease, especially for the heart and the head. It is especially good for digestion.
Two Recipes for Manus Christi
Original Recipe
To make Manus Christi
Take halfe a pound of refined Suger, and some Rose water, and boyle them together, till it come to sugar again, then stirre it about while it be somewhat cold, then take your leaf gould, and mingle with it, then cast it according to art, That is in round gobbetts, and so keep them. (A Closet for Ladies and Gentlevvomen, 1608)
My Interpretation
Take half a pound of refined sugar and some rosewater and boil them together, till it come to sugar again, then stir it about while it be somewhat cold, then take your leaf gold, and mingle with it, then cast it according to art, that is in round gobbets, and so keep them.
Original Recipe
Wholesome and comfortable Manus Christi, for such as have weak stomachs
Dissolve some of the whitest Barbary suger you can get, with a little rosewater in a small shallowe pipkin,that cotaineth 3 or 4 ounces & glased within, and having a smal lip, boile the same upon a soft fire, unto a stifnesse, or consistency(as they terme it) till a drop thereof being powred out of the lip upon a cold stone, become hard, and nor clammy when it is cold. And when you have your sugar boiled to this heigth, then having a cleane Marble stone, first sprinkeled over with fine flower, poure the same out by peecemeale, making each of them of the bignes of a groat or tester, or thereabouts, and when they are thorow cold, having a few droppes of the oyle cynamon, Cloves, mace, nutmegs, &c. in a silver-sþoone, with a small feather, give each of the Manus Christi a tuch onely with a little oyle, on the tippe of the feather, and so you may prepare a great many together of them with such oyles as the physician shal give direction, and in the eating of them, you shall finde them to warme and comfort your stomach exceedingly. Some do put in their oyles in the boyling of the Sirrop, but I holde the first to be the better way, both because you may make of severall sorts at-once, as also for that these oyles being over heated do lose a great part of their grace in tast. (The Jevvel House Of Art And Nature, 1653)
My Interpretation
Dissolve some of the whitest Barbary sugar you can get, with a little rosewater in a small shallow pipkin, that contains 3 to 4 ounces and glazed within, and having a small lip, boil the same upon a soft fire, unto a stiffness or consistency (as they term it) till a drop thereof being poured out of the lip upon a cold stone, become hard, and neither clammy when it is cold. And when you have your sugar boiled to this height, then having a clean marble stone, first sprinkled over with fine flour, pour the same out by piecemeal making each of them of the bigness of a groat or tester, or thereabouts, and when they are thoroughly cold, having a few drops of the oil of cinnamon, cloves, mace, nutmegs, etc. in a silver- spoon, with a small feather, give each of the Manus Christi a touch only with a little oil on the tip of the feather, and so you may prepare a great many together of them with such oils as the physician shall give direction, and in the eating of them, you shall find them to warm and comfort your stomach exceedingly. Some do put in their oils in the boiling of the syrup, but I hold the first to be the better way, both because you make several sorts at once, as also for that these oils being overheated do lose a great part of their grace in taste.
Ingredients
1 ½ cup sugar
¾ cup rosewater
Opt: gold Leaf
Directions
1. Mix sugar and rosewater together and set on medium-high heat.
2. When the temperature reaches 245° F remove from heat
Note: If you are using gold leaf, add it to the syrup at this point
3. Stir with a wooden spoon until the candy starts to cloud and turn opaque.
4. Drop cooling candy onto a marble stone or into a lightly oiled mold.
Note: If you do not have marble or a mold use parchment paper that has been placed on top of a cookie sheet that you have refrigerated. You can use flour in lieu of oil. I don’t because I do not care for the taste of “raw” flour.
5. Once cool, brush with cinnamon, mace, or clove oil.
6. Store in an air-tight container at room temperature.
Notes:
Once the candy begins to turn cloudy or opaque you have limited time to get it onto the mold or into shape. It almost immediately begins to set.
This candy is very fragile and sensitive to humidity. It will crumble and fragment until it has air dried completely.
What is Barbary Sugar? The finest imported sugar was the sugar that was made in Madiera, it was white and melted easily in a liquid. Barbary sugar was the next grade down and came from North Africa. It was imported in 100 pound loaves and broken up to be sold.
What is Manus Christi Height?
There has always been debate on what it means. I believe that it is the stage between the modern-day softball (235 – 240) and firm ball (245-250) because of the many descriptions of how the concentrated syrup is supposed to behave when it has reached the correct “candy height”. “36 Boile it untill it be almost Sugar againe, and at the last drop of your spoone there will a haire drop from it as fine as the haire of your head.” (The Marrow Of Physicke, 1648)
“37 Boile Sugar untill it will draw like a thred be∣tweene your Finger, and your Thumbe.” (The Marrow Of Physicke, 1648)
“then boyle ito to a Candie height, that is, when it will draw like a thred betweene your finger and your thumbe;” (The Marrow Of Physicke, 1648)
Documentation for TOA
Sources
A Closet for Ladies and Gentlevvomen: Or, the Art of Preseruing, Conseruing, and Candying ; with the Manner Hovve to Make Diuers Kinds of Syrups, and All Kind of Banqueting Stuffes : Also Diuers Soueraigne Medicines Medievalcookery.Com, 2022, https://www.medievalcookery.com/notes/1608closet.pdf. Accessed 8 Sept 2022.
"British Food". Google Books, 2022, https://www.google.com/books/edition/British_Food/w8SIDwAAQBAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1. Accessed 8 Sept 2022.
"Diuers Chimicall Conclusions Concerning The Art Of Distillation". Google Books, 2022, https://www.google.com/books/edition/Diuers_Chimicall_Conclusions_Concerning/nsw_AQAAMAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1. Accessed 8 Sept 2022.
Prepositas His Practise A Vvorke Very Necessary To Be Vsed For The Better Preseruation Of The Health Of Man. Wherein Are Not Onely Most Excellent And Approued Medicines, Receiptes, And Ointmentes Of Great Vertue, But Also Most Pretious Waters, Against Many Infirmities Of The Body. The Way How To Make Euery The Said Seuerall Medicines, Receiptes, And Ointmentes. With A Table For The Ready Finding Out Of Euery The Diseases, And The Remedies For The Same. Translated Out Of Latin Into English By L.M.". Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu, 2022, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo2/A09920.0001.001/1:4.94?rgn=div2;view=fulltext. Accessed 8 Sept 2022.
The General Practise Of Physicke Conteyning All Inward And Outward Parts Of The Body, With All The Accidents And Infirmities That Are Incident Vnto Them, Euen From The Crowne Of The Head To The Sole Of The Foote: Also By What Meanes (With The Help Of God) They May Be Remedied: Very Meete And Profitable, Not Only For All Phisitions, Chirurgions, Apothecaries, And Midwiues, But For All Other Estates Whatsoeuer; The Like Whereof As Yet In English Hath Not Beene Published. Compiled And Written By The Most Famous And Learned Doctour Christopher Vvirtzung, In The Germane Tongue, And Now Translated Into English, In Diuers Places Corrected, And With Many Additions Illustrated And Augmented, By Iacob Mosan Germane, Doctor In The Same Facultie.". Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu, 2022, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo2/A15599.0001.001/1:5.2.9?rgn=div3;view=fulltext;q1=manus+christie. Accessed 24 Aug 2022.
"The Jevvel House Of Art And Nature". Google Books, 2022, https://www.google.com/books/edition/The_Jevvel_House_of_Art_and_Nature/HKNAAQAAMAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=Wholesome+and+comfortable+Manus+Christi&pg=PA158&printsec=frontcover. Accessed 8 Sept 2022.
The Ladies Cabinet Enlarged And Opened:: Containing Many Rare Secrets, And Rich Ornaments Of Several Kindes, And Different Uses. Comprized Under Three General Heads. Viz. Of [Brace] 1. Preserving, Conserving, Candying, &C 2. Physick And Chirurgery. 3. Cookery And Houswifery. Whereunto Is Added, Sundry Experiments, And Choice Extractions Of Waters, Oyls, &C. / Collected And Practised; By The Late Right Honorable And Learned Chymist, The Lord Ruthuen. With A Particular Table To Each Part.". Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu, 2022, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo2/A76199.0001.001/1:3.1.34?rgn=div3;view=toc;q1=candy+height. Accessed 24 Aug 2022.
The Marrow Of Physicke, Or, A Learned Discourse Of The Severall Parts Of Mans Body Being A Medicamentary, Teaching The Manner And Way Of Making And Compounding All Such Oyles, Unguents ... &C. As Shall Be Usefull And Necessary In Any Private House ... : And Also An Addition Of Divers Experimented Medicines Which May Serve Against Any Disease That Shall Happen To The Body : Together With Some Rare Receipts For Beauties ... / Collected And Experimented By The Industry Of T.B.". Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu, 2022, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo2/A29919.0001.001/1:7.46?firstpubl1=1470;firstpubl2=1700;rgn=div2;singlegenre=All;sort=occur;subview=detail;type=simple;view=fulltext;q1=sucket. Accessed 22 Aug 2022.
"The First Part Of The Key Of Philosophie. Wherein Is Contained Moste Ex- [Sic] Excellent Secretes Of Phisicke And Philosophie, Divided Into Twoo Bookes. : In The Firste Is Shewed The True And Perfect Order To Distill ... In The Seconde Is Shewed The True And Perfect Order To Prepare, Calcine, Sublime, And Dissolue All Maner Of Mineralles ... / First Written In The Germaine Tongue By The Moste Learned Theophrastus Paraselsus, And Now Published In The Englishe Tongue By Ihon [Sic] Hester Practitioner In The Arte Of Distillation..". Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu, 2022, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo2/B00482.0001.001/1:5?firstpubl1=1470;firstpubl2=1600;rgn=div1;singlegenre=All;sort=occur;subview=detail;type=simple;view=fulltext;q1=Manus+Christi. Accessed 8 Sept 2022.
"The Garden Of Health Conteyning The Sundry Rare And Hidden Vertues And Properties Of All Kindes Of Simples And Plants, Together With The Maner How They Are To Be Vsed And Applyed In Medicine For The Health Of Mans Body, Against Diuers Diseases And Infirmities Most Common Amongst Men. Gathered By The Long Experience And Industrie Of William Langham, Practitioner In Phisicke.". Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu, 2022, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo2/A05054.0001.001?rgn=full+text;view=toc;q1=Manus+Christi. Accessed 8 Sept 2022.
"The Most Excellent Workes Of Chirurgerye, Made And Set Forth By Maister John Vigon, Heed Chirurgie[N] Of Our Tyme In Italie, Translated Into English. Whereunto Is Added An Exposition Of Straunge Termes [And] Vnknowen Symples, Belongyng To The Arte". Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu, 2022, https://quod.lib.umich.edu/e/eebo2/A14401.0001.001/1:11.17.6?rgn=div3;view=toc;q1=Manus+Christi. Accessed 8 Sept 2022.
Manus Christi Recipes
The confection called manus chri∣sti, is made after this sorte. ℞. of whit sugger one pounde, of rose water as muche as shall suffyce, make a confec∣tion at the fyer in morselles. But yf ye put thervnto of margarites .ʒ. ss. it shal be very cordiall. (The Most Excellent Workes Of Chirurgerye, 1543)
94 Manus Christi.
TAke of suger clarified and molted in water of roses. lib.s. séeth it together till the water be consumed, and the suger harde, in the ende of the decoction put in ʒ. s. of perles or precious stones made in fine pouder, then lay it vpon a marble stone annointed with oyle of roses, or els violets. (Prepositas His Practise, 1588)
133 Manus Christi, melt suger in Rose water halfe a pound, seeth it til a suger be hard, then put in powder of pearles or precious stones, and lay it on a marble anointed with oyle of Roses or of Violets, or Rose-water, and vse it. (The Garden Of Health, 1597)
Manus Christi with Pearles. §. 9.
THis cordiall Sugar is very common and is made thus: Take 12. ounces of the whitest Sugar, seeth it with Rose water like as is taught in our introduction, af∣terwards when it beginneth to be cold, stir an ounce of prepared Pearles amongst it, and make Tabulates or Manus Christi of it. It is good for all faintnesse, hote agues, heauie fantasies and imaginations.
The Apothecaries do commonly not take more then a dragme of Pearles vpon a pound of Sugar, because men will not go to the cost thereof.
Without Pearles the Apothecaries do call it Manus Christi simplex, they decoct the Sugar with Rose water, without putting any thing else vnto it. It is made also with violet water, Cinnamom water, and howsoeuer that one will haue them. (The General Practise Of Physicke, 1605)
To boile Sugar to a Manus Christi height.
36 Boile it untill it be almost Sugar againe, and at the last drop of your spoone there will a haire drop from it as fine as the haire of your head. (The Marrow Of Physicke, 1648)
To boile Sugar to a Candy height.
37 Boile Sugar untill it will draw like a thred be∣tweene your Finger, and your Thumbe. Preserve all your white Fruits in a Copper preserving Pan tinned within; for any Mettall else will change the colour of your Fruits. (The Marrow Of Physicke, 1648)
75 To make Manus Christi.
Of refined sugar take half a pound, and some Rosawter, and boil them together til it come to a sugar again: then stir it about while it be somewhat cold, then take your leaf-gold and mingle with it; then cast it according to art, that is in round gobbers, and so keep them. (The Ladies Cabinet Enlarged and Opened, 1654)
To Make Oil of Cinnamon, Clove, and Nutmeg
To make Oyle of Synamon.
TAke Synamone as muche as you will, and stampe it groslie: then put it into a glas with pure Aqua vitae, and so let it stand fiue or sixe daies, then di∣still it with a small fire, and there will come forthe bothe oyle and water, the which you shall separate one from another, for the oyle will sincke to the bottome: some vse to di∣still this with Wine, and some with Rose water.
You shal vnderstande that this oyle is of a maruelous nature, for it pearceth through fleshe and bones, and is very hot and drie, and is good against all colde and moiste di∣seases, and in speciall for the hart and head, in so muche that if a man did lie speacheles, and could scant drawe his winde, it would presently recouer hym againe, so that his tyme bee not yet come: moste miracolous to see: and to bee shorte, this oyle is of such operation and vertue, that if a man drinke neuer so little, he shall feele the workyng in his fingers and toes with greate maruell, and therfore to be short, it pearceth through the whole bodie, & helpeth all diseases that are come through colde and flegmatique matter. This oyle is hot and sharpe: It di∣gesteth and maketh thyne, & driueth doune womens tearmes: It helpeth women that haue greate paines and smarte in their tra∣uell, and bringeth forthe their fruite, if you giue the paciente a little of this oyle, with oyle of Mirra in Wine to drinke, and an∣noynte the partes therwith. The face and handes beyng annoynted with this oyle, it driueth awaie the meseles and spottes. It warmeth the breaste, and helpeth the colde Cough: it consumeth all colde stuxes that proceede from the braine and head, and cau∣seth quiet sleepe.
This Oyle maie bee occupied in steade of the naturall Baulme for many diseases: ye shall note that the water of Sinamone is also good against the aforesaied diseases, but yet nothyng of so muche force as the Oyle, for one droppe of Oyle will do more, then fower spoonfulles of the water, there∣fore thei would be vsed together.
To make Oyle of Cloues.
THis Oyle is made in this order. Take the beste Cloues that thou canst get, and beate them grosly, then put them into pure Wine in¦to a glasse, with a long necke close luted, then set it in warme horse dounge the space of a moneth, then distill it in Sande with a softe fire, and thou shalte haue a faire Oyle, whiche will sinke to the bottome, the which you shall separate: and his vertues are these.
It strengtheneth the braine, heade, and harte, and reuiueth the spirites, it serueth against all colde diseases, it consumeth all euill fleme: Beyng out wardly applied, it hath greate vertue in healyng, and maie be occupied in steede of Baulme for woundes. One or two droppes taken in the mornyng with Wine helpeth a stinkyng breathe: It maketh the harte merrie, and cleanseth the filthinesse thereof, and openeth the Liuer that is stopped: beyng putte into the eye it cleareth the sight. It comforteth a cold sto∣macke, and causeth good digestion, it pur∣geth Mellancollie: this oyle maie be made in Manus Christi with sugar, and thei will haue the aforesaied vertue and strength.
To make Oyle of Nutmegges.
THis Oyle is made as the Oyle of Cloues, and will swimme vppon the Wine: But if you distill this againe in Balneo, it will be moste pure and suttle, and maie be kept an hundreth yeres in his perfect strength and vertue.
This Oyle beeyng dronke with Wine driueth doune womens tearmes, and also the quicke and the dead fruite: And there∣fore women with childe shall not occupie this oyle, vntill suche tyme as thei be in tra∣uell with childe, and then it causeth them to be faire deliuered without paine and daun∣ger. Beyng dronke with wine it taketh a∣waie all paines of the heade commyng of It comforteth the Mawe, and ope∣neth the Liuer, Milte and Kidnes, and such like, it is excellent against beatyng of the harte, and faintnesse and soundyng, if ye drinke thereof and annoynte the region of the harte therewith: It maketh good blood, and expelleth flegmatike and mellancollie humours, and maketh a man merrie: Be∣yng vsed at night it taketh awaie al fancies and dreames: If any had a wounde, or had broken a ribbe within hym with a fall, lette hym drinke this oyle with any slight woūd drinke, and it will helpe hym although he were almoste deade: It is good in all filthie sores the whiche are counted vncurable: it is also preciouse for all colde diseases of the ioyntes and sinnewes: It maketh a sweete breathe: if the splene doe swell, ye shall an∣noynte therewith the lefte side: it helpeth all effectes in the blather if it be dronke.
Unfortunately the dating is wrong here. I know because I edited and annotated the edition being used. "(A Closet for Ladies and Gentlevvomen, 1602)" is actually first published in 1608.