Originally Published January 16, 2017
charlet(ten. - Prob. OF char laitée meat with milk
Todays culinary adventure from Two fifteenth-century cookery-books : Harleian MS. 279 (ab 1430), & Harl. MS. 4016 (ab. 1450), with extracts from Ashmole MS. 1439, Laud MS. 553, & Douce MS. 55 by Thomas Austin is a dish consisting of meat cooked in milk.
According to the Middle English Compendium, the name itself means meat-milk --char - for flesh and lette for milk. It is one of the more unusual dishes that I have tried to recreate. It falls into the category of a hard custard, or a milk-meat.
I am uncertain where the modern day cook would fit this into a feast. In period it was most likely served in the first, or the pottage, course. If you are interested in introducing your diners to something new, serve it alongside something more familiar. On it's own, I think it would be disappointing as the only offering. Modernly it might make a good breakfast dish despite it's thoroughly unappetizing appearance. That being said, you should try this recipe if for nothing else, the experience of putting this dish together. I'm sure additional seasonings would improve the taste, if not the look. What the dish turns out to be is a kind of "cheese" with bits of egg and meat. In order to serve it correctly in slices it will need to be cooled to room temperature before slicing, otherwise, it crumbles. Bringing the broth to a boil before pouring it over the slices reheats them adequately.
Because it needs to be cooled prior to reheating, it is a perfect "make ahead" dish for any event. If you do not mind eating it chilled and without the additional broth (which does not improve the taste), it could also make an adequate camp breakfast, or a lunch offering.
My suggestion to improve the flavor is to add additional seasonings outside of what the recipe calls for. The lack of seasoning was the biggest complaint for the modern day teenage taste testers.
Original Recipe
.lvj. Charlette.—Take Mylke, an caste on a potte, with Salt and Safroun y-now; þan hewe fayre buttys of Calf or of Porke, noȝt to fatte, alle smal, an kaste þer-to; þan take Eyroun, þe whyte an the ȝolke, & draw þorw a straynoure; an whan þe lycoure ys in boyling, caste þer-to þin Eyroun and Ale, & styre it tylle it Crodde; þan presse it a lytil with a platere, an serue forth; saue, caste þer-on broþe of Beeff or of Capoun.
Interpreted Recipe 56 - Charlette - Take milk and cast on a pot, with salt and saffron enough; then hew fair butts of calf or pork, not to fat, all small, and caste there-to; then take eggs, the white and the yolks and draw through a strainer: and when the liquor is boiling, caste there-to your eggs and ale, and stir it till it curd; then press it a little with a platter, and serve forth; save, caste there-on broth of beef or of capon. Ingredients
Makes approximately six 1" slices
1 cup milk
1/4 pound pork or veal (I used ground pork)
Salt to taste
Pinch of saffron
2 eggs
2 tbsp. ale
1/4 cup chicken stock
Instructions
1. Simmer the meat in the milk with the salt and saffron until it has cooked through.
2. While the meat is simmering beat the eggs with the ale.
3. When the meat has cooked completely bring the milk to a boil and throw in the egg and ale mixture, bring to a boil and begin stirring constantly to prevent burning and sticking.
4. After a minute you will see the milk and eggs beginning to form curds. Lower the heat to simmer, continuing to stir for about five more minutes and remove from heat.
5. Allow the mixture to sit until it cools to room temperature.
6. Line a sieve with cheesecloth and pour the meat and egg mixture into it. Fold the cheesecloth over and weight with a plate. I used a couple of 28 ounce cans to continue to press the mixture and strain out the whey, just like you would do if you were making cheese. Remove from the sieve and place on a tray and into a fridge to allow to cool overnight. 7. Once the charlette is cooled completely, slice it into slices and set the slices in a bowl. I suggest two slices per dish.
8. Bring your stock to a rolling boil, add 8 ounces of broth to the bowl, and serve.
Similar Recipes Fourme of Curye [Rylands MS 7] (England, 1390) .xxxix. Charlet. Tak pork & seeth it wel, hewe hit smal, cast it in a panne, breke ayroun & do therto & swynge hit wel to geder, do therto cow mylk & safroun & boyle it to gyder, salt hit and messe hit forth. Ancient Cookery [Arundel 334] (England, 1425) Charlet. Take sweete cowe mylk, and put into a panne, and cast in therto zolkes of eyren and the white also, and fothen porke brayed, and sage; and let hit boyle tyl hit crudde, and colour it with saffron, and dresse hit up, and serve hit forthe. A NOBLE BOKE OFF COOKRY (ENGLAND, 1468) To mak charlet tak freche porke and sethe it and swing eggs ther withe then hewe the pork smalle and boile it in swet mylk and serue it.
Sources
"Charlet And Charlette - Middle English Compendium". 2022. Quod.Lib.Umich.Edu. https://quod.lib.umich.edu/m/middle-english-dictionary/dictionary/MED7275/track?counter=1&search_id=20765018.
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